Linen in Hanoi: Winter 2025
There are cities that reward planning. Hanoi is not one of them. You may arrive with your itinerary and your reservations, but Hanoi has a mind of its own. If you are wearing the wrong clothes when you begin to understand this, the lesson arrives twice.
I landed Hanoi on a Monday, carrying the warmth of a wedding in Phú Quốc. The heat and humidity was immediate right after walking out the airport. The kind of warmth that settles into natural fibre and keeps its counsel.
Day One
The traffic is overwhelming and quickly made me decide to change of course for the day. After settling in at the hotel. I have decided to take it easy for the remaining of the day. That is how I stumble upon Phở Cuốn Hưng Bền. I found it before any plan did. The rice-paper rolls arrived without ceremony. Delicious honest street food that hit the mark and prepare me for some indulgence later. Afterwards I continue my quest to Workshop 14. The co-owner formerly known for his tenure at 69 Colebrook Row. A legendary bar in London, he brings a modernist lens to Hanoi's cocktail scene. I arrived right when the bar opened. A daiquiri felt more than proper to combat the humid weather. As I read through the menu the botanicals here are argument, not garnish. The room sat calm against the diesel roar outside. That was enough for a first night.
Day Two
The second morning I met up with Kai, a photographer friend of mine. We found a coffee shop overlooking the bridge and the river. Sat on the patio through the peak-hour rush. Kai and I talked about love, relationships, the philosophical pursuit of happiness. Hanoi traffic assembled and disassembled in the street below. Afterwards we walked the Old Quarter alleyways. Motorbikes threading past at hip distance. Laundry overhead, electrical cables forming a second canopy. We found St. Joseph's Cathedral. The French neo-Gothic stone imported into a Vietnamese paragraph. Kai spotted a cocktail bar on the upper floor overlooking the square. An artist with a poetic soul on one side of the table; a pragmatist on the other. Neither of us conceded ground. We grabbed phở before the light changed, then walked to the Temple of Literature and Train Street.
I was wearing Charlie's Overshirt in heavy-weight Irish linen with Irish linen shorts.
There is a reason linen is the cloth of hot climate. It does not trap heat against the skin. It wicks, releases, moves. It breathes in the way that close-woven synthetics cannot. There is no need for cuttign edge technology here. Sometime a simple classic textile can cool you down with air from every direction. Charlie's Overshirt, in its heavyweight construction, adds something further: the drape of a garment that has genuine substance. It does not wrinkle up nor press to the body.
By evening, Hanoi dropped its temperature the way it drops everything — without announcement, simply expecting you to have noticed. Commuting across town as the light went amber, the air thinned enough to feel it on the skin. And the overshirt is thick enough for this. With sufficient density to hold the body's warmth close without trapping it.
“Charlie’s Overshirt”
Day Three:
The path of least resistance is not laziness. It is intelligence. Apply force only when necessary. Otherwise, follow the current. That is what Hanoi has taught me in the past two days.
We grab lunch at Mono Coffee Lab then stroll around the streets towards the brewery. It's when we stumble upon IM Coffee Bar. An interior design firm's showroom that housed in a retail space that felt like a gallery. The intention behind the space was better than the drink itself, which is the highest compliment a room can receive. The specialty drinks here also lives up its appearance.
We continue our adventure towards the brewery for a few pints. Then change of course for even more coffee at the Greyhaus before finding our way to Workshop 14. Which by now felt less like a venue and more like punctuation. We took the motorbike to Nomnom for dinner. An eatery tuck into a residential alleyway. Minimalist architecture and interior. But radiant warm within and a wine list chosen with care over ambition. We ended our night with live jazz performance to closed the trip.
I dressed in the Spinard Jacket, cut from the Solbiati's Art du Lin bunch. A washed linen cloth paired a pair of white linen trousers with a one-piece collar linen shirt.
Photography: @kz.tsao
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